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ozconnection

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ozconnection last won the day on October 24 2012

ozconnection had the most liked content!

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About ozconnection

  • Rank
    L Plater
  • Birthday 12/14/1965

Previous Fields

  • My Ride
    '78 280C and '71 240C

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sydney, Australia
  • Interests
    Datsuns!
  1. Sdc - St Albans Cruise Sunday 21 Oct 2012

    Yep, that sums things up beautifully. Great day out. Cheers.
  2. L20B Long Rod Conversion.

    I chased this idea too Mark. I did this sort of mod to one of my L28's, a longer rod and a shorter pin height piston with shorter skirts and less weight. It improved the rod to stroke ratio from 1.63 (stock L28) to 1.73. I noticed that the way the engine revved to be much 'easier' with good top end response. Its such a subjective thing but since you've built a lot of L20B's you'll notice the difference with this one you're building. It mightn't make more power, but it'll certainly feel pirkier. Great work.
  3. Sdc July Cruise

    Yep, it was a fun drive down to Robertson. Damn, did I get into trouble for not bringing home any pies....seems that I'll have to go back down there to get some. LOL Any excuse.
  4. 240C Bonnet Same As 260C Sedan And Coupe?

    Yep, they're the same! 230 series, of course.
  5. Fj20Et Water Running Temp

    There is some great threads on another Nissan/Datsun site called HybridZ. Worth investigating if you have a LOT of time to spend reading it all. I often read the threads and take notes as I go along. Sounds like High school but hey, it's all there for the taking. Just by reading what's on this thread, it really seems to me like your radiator is a bit small for your engine. I understand that it's new and breaking in, but 98 degrees is too hot. I hope that your thermostat is correctly installed. Running a very cold thermostat to stove off runaway overheating is wrong in my opinion. Simply, there is too much heat being produced by your engine and your radiator et al can't liberate the heat sufficiently. Do you have a radiator shroud? Have you upgraded the radiator cap to a higher pressure unit? Is your water pump in good condition? You need to ask yourself all of these questions but I really do think your radiator is underrated for the job.
  6. Electric Water Pumps

    I was wondering if any of you guys have checked the performance of the mechanical pump on your engines versus the Davies Craig electrical ones? Flow is important. Thats whats quoted when DC EWP 80 or 110 is mentioned. Do we know how much flow is from the standard water pump? The bigger question is " At what Pressure?" And why is pressure important, you might ask. It all goes back to school and the Science class. Things like boiling points and nucleate boiling and atmospheric pressure are the key words. We all know water boils at 100 degrees. Coolant is somewhat higher by default and using water wetter and distilled water, the boiling point is even higher. But lets say that 100 degrees celcius is the boiling point of water (and here is the qualifier!) at sea level....14.7 PSI or 1 Bar........."pressure" If we go to the top of Everest, we can boil water at much less than 100 degrees celcius due to the ease at which the water is able to change from liquid to vapour. Take the situation and reverse it and try and boil water below sea level OR increase the atmospheric pressure and you can get the water to boil at 110-115 or more degrees celcius. Can you guys see where I'm heading with this.....Davies craig pumps don't build coolant pressure in the cooling system like mechanical belt driven water pumps do. They will not raise the boiling point of the water/coolant/whatever by much at all. Yes, lots of flow, and even more flow if the thermostat is removed, and you're even less likely to build any 'pressure' in the cooling system. Yes, some pressure will occur because as the coolant heats up it expands but this value is nowhere near the 25-35 psi or more seen in tests I've performed on my L28 recently. I bought a DC EWP115 and thought it would build some block coolant pressure......It didn't. Only when the engine warmed up I saw 5-6 psi. Look, I could go on....but I'm telling you that I wanted to share with you guys my experiences with electric water pumps and that if you want to be able to run proper ignition advance with your boosted or high comp N/A engines, these are not the way to go. The power you save by deleting the mechanical pump is offset by having to retard your timing because of the inability of your cooling system to stove off nucleate boiling! Make of this what you will....it is my experiences that the electric pumps are somewhat "less" than expected.
  7. S1 Bluebird

    It was a long time ago, I saw a series one at Oran Park, when they used to drag down there. He sat the engine very far forward, with the water pump virtually on top of the radiator. Fan was gone, obviously, with a thermo jobbie in front of the radiator. He had a trio of webers and the thing sounded great. I think he just bolted the thing to the 5 speed and avoided all the hassle of relocating the rear crossmember, shortening the tailshaft etc. Pretty quick too if I remember correctly. It was certainly a case of "OMG" when he popped the bonnet for the tech inspection. God knows what happened to that car. Cheers!
  8. DSC02454.JPG

    Wow, we bought our mum a B310 sunny from this dealership way back in '79. Great stuff, the label looks new!
  9. My Satus is .....'good' WTF is this?

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