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TUF510

TUF-510 Datsun 1600 1972

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small update:

The car made it to NDN09 in Warwick and back without major issues. I was surprised

at the fuel economy on the trip. I managed around 8 liters/100km on the highway bits and

10 liters/100 on the twisty bits.

My remote brake reservoir hose split just before i left for NDN and i temp fixed with a bit of

aluminium pipe so i thought. After the 3 run at the drags i checked inside the engine bay and noticed

that it still leaked. i was lucky that it didn't leak all the fluid and lose both clutch & brake pedals

as i had a triple reservoir remote from an Nissan Urvan.

So this week i went to pick n pay-more but couldn't find the same hoses to replace my leaking one

so i bit the bullet and went to Earls to see if i could get something to fit my brake/clutch mastercylinders.

I replaced the triple reservoir with a double and got a second hand motorbike reservoir for the clutch. These both

now run the 8mm ID brake hose unlike the unobtanium one for the 12mm ID Urvan hoses.

here are a few pix of the new setup

tiltonreservoir.th.jpg

tiltonremotecap.th.jpg

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unwanted update:

Datsun is off the road indefinitely as there is a noise/rattle in the timing chain.

Upon further investigation it was found that the long timing chain guide is

Cracked and hanging on by 2 threads.

The bad news is that to change this guide which only has 3 bolts to it,

i have to remove the sump, head, water pump, timing case cover etc.

Easiest way to do this is to remove engine/gearbox from car.

Unfortunately it has come at a bad time and it will be a long while

before i get around to fixing it.

here is a pick of the cracked guide

guidecrack.th.jpg

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FK thats noooo good at all man you just got it all running smooth . SPEWIN !!!!!!!

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You're game posting that on here Pete, but I won't kick a (FJ) guy while he's down.

What a bugger... such a minor thing, putting you off the road for so long. I was so looking forward to the "battle of the Peter's" at WSID again soon

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It's been a little while since I have updated this thread so here goes:

Back in July I found that one of my Timing chain guides had cracked and was hanging on by a couple of threads literally. I had a spare used guide as when I rebuilt the engine in 2005 I replaced all 3 with new Nissan ones. It took me forever to install the bottom bolt of the guide without removing the head, sump and timing case cover, but now I have a special 12mm ring/open ender spanner if I ever need to fix it again as well as a sore back from being hunched over.

I drove the car for a little while but it still had the infamous FJ20 timing chain rattle. I spoke to Trent at SSS and he mentioned that heavy-duty valve springs may be the cause of the cracking guide. I found a place in Japan that delivered the Tomei Valve springs at a reasonable price so I ordered them in October 2009.

Within 2 weeks they had arrived. I was almost tempted to change the Valve springs and adjust the bucket & shims on car but not owning a decent valve spring compressor I decided it was cheaper to remove the head and send it to a Head shop to have it done professionally.

Since the head was off and I was getting the shims adjusted, I went to Camtechcams.com.au and had my old cams reground to 264 degree with 10mm lift. Upon closer inspection of the head it was deemed the Exhaust valves had to much play so a new set of Inlet and Exhaust valves were ordered and installed along with the freshly reground camshafts.

While the head was getting sorted I began cleaning the deck of the block and pistons when I noticed that the bore in Cylinder 1 was not the best. It actually looked bad and had what I thought was a deep scratch from the rings, which would not hone out. As my forged pistons where only 5 years/20 000km old , I planned to reuse them with new rings and bearings. After removing the motor from the car, I began to strip the engine when I noticed a chunk of aluminum in the sump. Upon further investigation I found that it belong to the timing case cover. I was very lucky as if I had driven it without fixing would have totaled the engine.

I took my nitride crank to the machine shop along with a spare block that had never been touched and I got them to bore and hone to fit my existing forged pistons. The reason the bore was damaged like that was from coolant entering the bore. My previously o-ring block and copper head gasket didn't seal as well as I had hoped. This time I opted to get a multi layered steel gasket from Cometic.

The only other thing I hadn't done when I previously built the motor was to use ARP head studs, so I got a set for this motor. Using the timing chains from the previous rebuild wasn't recommended so I ordered a new set of high quality IWIS timing chains and new Nissan chain guides from Tracey at Datsport.

The engine was assembled by the machine shop and delivered to the workshop so all I had to do was install in the car. Attaching the manifolds and gearbox before I installed made it more difficult to install but would save time in the end. Once installed the car started first go and without the timing chain rattle, so now the thrash (running in process) begins.

With the start of a new year, freshly built motor I decided to sell my turbo and get the turbo I had originally wanted. Within a week it was sold to a commodore owner in Melbourne and on Friday I ordered the new Garrett GT3076R with 0.82 rear housing from GCG.com.au. Monday lunchtime I get a phone call to say its ready to be picked up. After coming home with the new turbo I fitted it within an hour or so.

The grin could not be wiped from my face after the first drive of the new turbo and it hasn't been tuned yet either so I am really looking forward to getting this done in the near future. On the to do list is the plum the screamer back into the exhaust so the tuner can tune it. I'm hoping in the next month or so it will be tuned. 10psi gets very boring after being used to 17psi.

Thanks for taking the time to read this long post

Peter

Here are a few happy snaps

Water damaged cylinder bore

th_IMG_0105.jpg

th_IMG_0124.jpg

th_IMG_0126.jpg

th_IMG_0132.jpg

aluminum chunk in sump

th_IMG_0128.jpg

th_IMG_0131.jpg

Reground camshafts installed

th_IMG_0195.jpg

New GT3076R

th_GT3037-56T.jpg

th_Turbine.jpg

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Its great to hear the old girl is back up and running!!

The GT3076R is an awsome turbo choice for a 2L engine...on my engine it actually makes more boost and comes on earlier than my previous GT2871 :thumbsup:

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Nice update Pete - you have been a busy boy!

Here's hoping this is the end of your run of hard luck :wallbash: dude.

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Im curious to see what power you make TUF510 ...im am using the same turbo but with the twin scroll rear housing.

Good luck with it ..seems like you have had a few set backs of late..

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Im curious to see what power you make TUF510 ...im am using the same turbo but with the twin scroll rear housing.

Good luck with it ..seems like you have had a few set backs of late..

Thanks guys...

To be honest i'm not fussed on a specific dyno number as long as it runs 120+ mph at WSID

Will be interesting to see the spool/power characteristics of the TS turbo. Do you have the dual wastegate

setup aswell?

It would be great to see some pics of your setup

Cheers

Peter

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Hi Peter, i dont want to hijack your thread but here are a couple of pics during the manifold fab..

i have been too lazy until lately and havent tig'ed the wastegate flanges on yet ..but yes it will have the twin external tial gates.

IMGP0413.jpg

IMGP0415.jpg

IMGP0418.jpg

Im getting into this thing heaps lately as i want it driving in the next few months...damn there is a lot of modfication on this car .

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got to hand it to you mate that looks the goods... It should be a weapon when done... Thanks for posting the pix

Cheers

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