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autoshotz

Project 510 - 1972 Datsun 1600, SR20DET Conversion

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autoshotz    4

Well,

Sick of driving around in my PT so I bought a project car! I have been progressing pretty quickly with the project so I thought I might start this thread.

This is what I bought it!

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This was about 5 minutes after I got her home - lol

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I purchased this 1972 Datsun 1600 with the SR20DET converstion in mind. I looked for some time to make sure I could find a car with a straight body. This one seems to be in pretty good nick considering the age. Anyway most of the modification will be done by myself but with considerable knowledge & input from Baz @ datsport.

I have now removed the old gearbox, the complete rear end and will soon removed the engine block, all of which will be scrap metal soon enough.

The project will be to restore the car to show standard with a sh#t load of attention to detail, including crap like button start, all nuts and bolts replaced with new ones, and heaps of custom touches on the way.

The project will take abit of time, and will progress as the finances permit

Will keep this thread up todate as much as I can! Always open to suggestions?

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autoshotz    4

OK Guys, made my first purchase on friday 3rd August 2007. I have bought a fully adjustable rear cross member! The first pic is of the standard one I have just removed. I have also taken the rear trailling arms off and removed the diff & CV's - these are all going to "Parts Heaven".

IMG_0173.jpg

Removed more boby parts - owww this is fun! LOL

IMG_0165.jpg

Removed more interior:

IMG_0177.jpg

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autoshotz    4

Worked on the car over the weekend! Geezzz im loving this .

I paint stripped and prepared the engine bay for a new paint job. This is only painted to make the engine bay look alittle smarted why I get ready for the engine conversion. The engine bay will be smoothing out and repainting when the car is ready for paint & panel - sometime in the next 2 to 3 decades. This home job should be ok for now! B)

I removed the Battery mount ( no room in engine bay so this is beeing relocated to the boot) and cut the holds for the new "Crush Tube" this is to add strength to the cros member - pic 1

Pic 1

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Engine bay shots

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New bushes for the tie rod's (opps the ring's not suppose to be there dont worry I have removed that)

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New Lower control arm's installed and ready for the coil over uprights

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New Stabiliser bar and ball link system: makes for more adjustment.

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New fully adjusterble rear cross member, note the bolts can be adjusted Up, Down In & Out

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Larger holel for the new exhast!

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Last but not least is the anti vibration transmission mount:

_MG_2468.jpg

That about does it for this weeks stuff. I have sourced my R200 Longnose & I am awaiting more parts to finish off the rear end. Should have this in the next week or so. New rear brake discs (260mm slotted and spotted discs with R31 calipers and fully rebuilt lower control arms) Once this stuff arrives the rear end will be done apart for the custom CV's that need to be measured and cut for the car.

Stay Tuned

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autoshotz    4
what CV setup you looking to use??

car looks nice.. money well spent..

Yea thanks guys, car is coming along. Im sure you will all agree that Baz @ datsport does a great job with the parts.

I havent thought about the CV setup as yet, anyone have any suggestions????

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craigo    0

Im going to be using an NA 300ZX Z32 R200 centre in a longnose casing. And using the Z32 cv's (need to be shortened) and brakes.

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SIKBRO    3

nexcent organised an ebay group buy on shafts from the USA pretty expensive.. but bolt right in..

pretty sure z32 re-splined would still be cheaper and easier to replace if broken tho.. get 2 sets made up add a bit on the 2nd set and sell them off as a bolt in package..

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deeznutz    2

New suspension parts are a must I reckon for any datsun project, makes the end result so much better with handle and driving.

Car looks great.

Im going to be using an NA 300ZX Z32 R200 centre in a longnose casing. And using the Z32 cv's (need to be shortened) and brakes.

Craigo I think the Z32 uses a R230 not a R200. But if you are interested in a Long nose R200 with S13 centre plus uncut shafts let me know.

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craigo    0

thats why i said NA the TT model is the R230 NA is R200

the Z32 shadts are a bolt in replacement for GTR's and take a much bigger beating. so they shouldnt break.

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chris1818    0

Nice car mate its gonna be a neat project, I'm loving the detailed photos aswel, keep em coming

nice clean workspace you've got too, lets see how well you can mess it up

Good luck with it all

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autoshotz    4

As I previously mention, I sourced an R200 VLSD 3.9. This was not as hard to find as I thought I couldnt beleve how large and heavy this bloody thing is!

Here are a few pics:

R200.jpg

R2002.jpg

As this is a viscous, I cant jump in on the recent group buy for the CV's. I think at this stage I will arrange to get them custom made!

On a side note, before anyone asks, I have choosen to go with the Viscous as I am building the car for street & show purpose. If I end up running Hilclimbs ect I will source a mechnical.

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autoshotz    4

Also I was wondering if any of you guys run this radiator?? This was taken at the recent Jamboree! Did PWR design this to fit in the exact same spot as the standard radiator, or will there be some cutting involved?

_MG_1514.jpg

Also what is the best Intercooler size used & recommended by most - I noticed the PWR also had a I/C that was 300x300x73?? I would like to have a good size, but without the need to cut into the car too much. I would also like to keep the I/C (and piping) behind the front grill (the idea is to keep the body of the dastun in the original shape)

Any advice would be great!

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gun16    2
Also I was wondering if any of you guys run this radiator?? This was taken at the recent Jamboree! Did PWR design this to fit in the exact same spot as the standard radiator, or will there be some cutting involved?

Also what is the best Intercooler size used & recommended by most - I noticed the PWR also had a I/C that was 300x300x73?? I would like to have a good size, but without the need to cut into the car too much. I would also like to keep the I/C (and piping) behind the front grill (the idea is to keep the body of the dastun in the original shape)

Any advice would be great!

I would ring them to confirm but given that its a PWR and its stated as a datsun 1600 rad i feel it would be safe to assume its a bolt in jobbie, you could get spacers as well to allow room for a cooler behind the grille.

The best intercooler size i think most datnet people would agree is 450x300x76 check out my thread and chris's (turbovan) to show how little you have to cut to ensure a neat appearance.

This also allows for all plumbing to be done in the bay.

Oh and top shelf build by the looks go Parkinson and Datsport.

And we need to sit down and work out our diffs!

12mm tailshaft bolts!! big dog!!

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autoshotz    4

Yea I probably will go with a PWR I/C aswel, there appears to be an intercooler for the 1600 on the PWR site, but it only mentions the thickness (73mm). Anyone know the dimentions of it (Product code: PWI5196)??

I am seeing a guy on thursday to help with the removal of the 27mm bolt and flange plate to assist in pushing the diff through the cross member! So I will have a chat to my mechanic friend about the Cv's and hopefull report back to you about the next step. If we do the job at the same time they may give us a discount?

Yes Parkinson is going to become home of the best Datsun 1600 builds on the planet! Mark my words! But must admit, this build is a huge credit to Baz & his team @ datsport! Love ya work Baz! Keep those parts comming!

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SIKBRO    3

ring up PWR and get dimensions.. theres a BMW radiator that seems to work well with the 450*300*76 just jap cooler.. search datnet for it.

make up replica radiator and testfit it with a mock cooler too( use house doors for the core 36mm thick and just rip up sum "end tanks" and double up the doors for the cooler) and then u can figure out exact sizes u can use, and do sum more research and see what rad's u can use from a stock car or get custom ones made up..

check out gun's setup, hasnt made big power yet but i reckon that'd be plenty enough for cooling..

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autoshotz    4

The guy at the show said that the rad 's & I/C's are very similar in price, he mentioned about $770.00 each!

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gun16    2
check out gun's setup, hasnt made big power yet but i reckon that'd be plenty enough for cooling..

Cheers for the reminder

The guy at the show said that the rad 's & I/C's are very similar in price, he mentioned about $770.00 each!

The BMW V8 740I rad is around 440 and the coolers are under 250 prob even less i cant quite remember.

Depends what look your going for i guess.

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FIVETEN    0

pwr all the way i drew mine up and got them to custom make it for me......

There work is well and truely immaculant i can't fault it or there service...

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autoshotz    4

Thanks Derek, I will look further into the prices when the time comes to purchase. I am aiming to keep the entire build genuine Nissan & Datsun parts (except preformance parts of course )

Ok, so over the weekend I also found time to build myself a workbench! I grabbed a vice from ebay, I think it cost me $30 plus postage.

IMG_4942.jpg

Note all the baby food jars & containers - having a baby was useful after all

I had to get the flange removed from the diff to get the diff through the crossmember. Note to all, make sure you make a point on the 27mm bolt to ensure you tighten the bolt back up to the correct place on the thread (Thanks Baz!). Once the bolt is removed, I had to use a gear pull to remove the flange (Shes in there pretty good, tapping it wont help). I also had to grind a very small peice from the bottom side of the diff, this ensured all the bolts lined up with teh crossmember! Put the bolts in and Voilà! Ready for install into the car! I have a new backing plate for the diff and a modified moustache bar on route from Baz, so I should have the diff & the rear disc assembly in the car in the next week or so!

IMG_4946.jpg

I had to remove the speed sensor, the casing once removed exposes the gear, I didnt see the need to remove it so I left it on!

IMG_4947.jpg

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autoshotz    4
pwr all the way i drew mine up and got them to custom make it for me......

There work is well and truely immaculant i can't fault it or there service...

Yea im sure your right Aaron, I have seen alot of cars in my automotive photography career & must admit they look great. You pay for a great product thats forsure....

I dont supose you can give me an estimate of the cost to customise a pwr Rad & IC??

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this should be a great car when finished, and i suppose considering that you see so many good modified cars, that you are trying to eclipse them in build quality?? maybe?

Looking great already

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autoshotz    4

Ok, My next shipment (thanks datsport) of stuff arrived yesterday (love it when christmas is early) This stuff will just about complete the rear end:

King Springs;

IMG_5956.jpg

KYB Gas shocks:

IMG_5957.jpg

Modified moustache bar

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New Rear Diff plate & gasket:

IMG_5959.jpg

New Rear Brake disc's & caliper's:

IMG_5960.jpg

IMG_5961.jpg

IMG_5962.jpg

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I should have this stuff in the car by the weekend! Will post up shots one the setup is in!

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