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SX-510

SX-510 SR20DET 510 1800SSS Bluebird Coupe

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the car looks awsome in the first pic on this page (and every other pic aswell). good work jeff.

i like the skyline wheels better too

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who owns the black 1600 with the wing at the dyno day?

wing, look at those flares

on topic love the timeslip and dyno sheet PLMS strikes again

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Awesome job a very tastefully done car.

shame about the new wheels though, look ugly, sure u cant ofload them to someone?

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who owns the black 1600 with the wing at the dyno day?

wing, look at those flares

on topic love the timeslip and dyno sheet PLMS strikes again

Black flared winged datto: Ouch..

Nice power curve jeff..

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winged datsun is owned by graeme harlor

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race datsun. they are allowed to look ugly aslong as it seves a purpose....

chroming isn't that much of a rip off

worth every penny i rechon

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Awesome job a very tastefully done car.

shame about the new wheels though, look ugly, sure u cant ofload them to someone?

Thanks Mal

- and nice try

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I plan to iron out any mechanical bugs over the next 3 or so years (not that there really are any ) then strip the car down and give it a complete bare metal show condition rebuild. Will also be doing some serious rust prevention and body strengthening as done (bloody well) by Nik sr20datsun to his 4dr in Melbourne. Gotta make this baby last forever!

At least you have some mechanical bugs to iron out

Good work Jeff. Can't wait to get mine on the road...

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Aaahhhh, the infamous SX-510 glory thread. Only 50 pages of sledging & 2 pages of updates to go before it matches the old one.

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Kinda hoping to keep this thread a tad tidier if that's possible Benny....

Anyways, it seems Jon's FLY BY thread is the new home of the hijack

Speaking of updates - In the ongoing mission to find an easy way to bolt my mechanical R33 short nose LSD into the car, I bought some 5 bolt S13 SR turbo CV shafts the other day hoping that the inner CVs had the same spline as my custom (S14 6 bolt) CV shafts - but no..... Same number of splines, but 2mm bigger OD on the S13 shafts.... bugger.

Looks like I might have to cut the 5 bolt mounting flanges off the R33 diff flanges, then weld some new custom 6 bolt flange faces on to suit my shafts. From memory the diameter of the diff flanges at the point they'd be welded (inside and out) is approx 80mm OD/65mm ID, which might put a little less stress on the weld, but I just don't know if it would be strong enough. Would get it welded by a pro, then faced off in a lathe to remove any mounting flange face deformation, then x-rayed, then heat treated, but still not sure if it would be strong enough???

Anyone know a real metallurgist/engineer that I could ask for an opinion before I start?

flanges2.jpg

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Speaking of updates - In the ongoing mission to find an easy way to bolt my mechanical R33 short nose LSD into the car, I bought some 5 bolt S13 SR turbo CV shafts the other day hoping that the inner CVs had the same spline as my custom (S14 6 bolt) CV shafts - but no..... Same number of splines, but 2mm bigger OD on the S13 shafts.... bugger.

I thought your diff is all set Jeff? With those wheelie bar looking things along the side? My shortnose setup was inspired by your design, but I have a thick plate going over the top connecting Rear CM with the moustache bar.

I'm pretty sure that some good welding will hold, wouldn't the CV's go first if anything?

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a weld is definatly going to maximise your chances of brakage....

r32 gtr is 6 bolt if that helps...

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Thanks Fitzy - I'll go look at some GT-R flanges on the weekend then.

Mark - I'm pretty sure the welds would hold up too, but will leave that option as the last one.

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Mark - I'm pretty sure the welds would hold up too, but will leave that option as the last one.

If it helps, I have the R32 diff and the flanges were machined to suit (I think 6 symetrical holes, Like wheel hubs), kinda like your S14 5 bolt in 6 bolt, not sure about size, I could check if you'd like?

custom made axle shafts using BMW CV's, Options are very limited here

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I think I get what you're saying Mark, but I prob need to see a pic of a stock r32 GT-R diff flange (or even CV shaft flange for that matter). I need a flange with 3 pairs of 2 holes, not 6 x evenly spaced individuals.

If all else fails with my search for a bolt-in solution, I've been considering knocking up a couple of flange adaptors like this:

newflange.jpg

The idea is to turn off the 5 bolt flange section of the R33 flange, then make a new flange plate/sleeve from hi-tensile steel that slides over the existing. Drill it through from 4 points and insert some interference fit shear-pin dowels, maybe even weld 'em in. So the shear pins, in tandem with the perimeter welding should make for a solution that holds together....

Anyways, need to look at a GT-R flange first.

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Will the dowels hold?? At least if there was anything to break, it would probably be the dowels breaking first..

here are some pictures of my CV's

P5180051.jpg

P5180050.jpg

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Interesting setup you've got the Mark - is there a moustache bar attached to the diff? Got any pics from further away to show the whole setup?

The dowels will just be 'assisting' the welding in my cunning plan. Will probably weld them in place at each end too. When I was studying mechanical engineering a few years back I was amazed how much stronger certain materials were in shear versus tension or compression. Given the diameter of the assembly, the dia of the shear pins and the circumferential welding I'm gonna have to try pretty hard to break it. And if I do happen to break it, it's not exactly a major safety concern

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Actually disregard the question about moustache bar - I've just realised that LARGE OBVIOUS primered steel plate is it

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I was amazed how much stronger certain materials were in shear versus tension or compression. Given the diameter of the assembly, the dia of the shear pins and the circumferential welding I'm gonna have to try pretty hard to break it. And if I do happen to break it, it's not exactly a major safety concern

OK.. I'll trust you on that one..

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Top car Jeff. Love the contrast of the R32 rims against the white. Also loving the cage. Hoping to get something similar happening for my beast. (If shes ever finished)

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Thanks man - I'm really liking the car too. After looking at it on old crappy wheels and/or jack stands for so long its really good to be able to drive it somewhere, then get out and go "wow - can't believe I put everything in and under this car and it got me here [quickly ] and nothing failed"

Like Phillip Is VIC at 5am the day after giving it it's first drive less than an hour from home for example

Glad you like it dood

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as always brilliant setup! well done, cant wait to see it with the watanabes on, should really set it off any chance of some pics of the inside-back of the car? in particular the cage, would like to see what youve got going on in there! cheers mate and good luck with it, hope the diff stuff all comes together how you want it.

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Interesting setup you've got the Mark - is there a moustache bar attached to the diff? Got any pics from further away to show the whole setup?

The dowels will just be 'assisting' the welding in my cunning plan. Will probably weld them in place at each end too. When I was studying mechanical engineering a few years back I was amazed how much stronger certain materials were in shear versus tension or compression. Given the diameter of the assembly, the dia of the shear pins and the circumferential welding I'm gonna have to try pretty hard to break it. And if I do happen to break it, it's not exactly a major safety concern

Jeff, I personally reckon welding is fine. I have had extensive discussions with my two tool maker/engineer mates and they are confident that welding components in relation to the driveshafts and fittings is fine. The disclaimer to this is that the welding must be done by a professional.

For example they reckon there should be no issue shortening up a set of HR31 CV shafts by completing the following. Putting the axles on the lathe and taking the required length in the middle. Machine a dowel of sorts to ensure its straight and put a large sleeve over the shaft, say the same thickness as the shafts being approx 20mm. It also needs to be as long as possible.

Then get the sleeve welded at each end by a pro. If the welder is made of the hardening he can take that into account and not get the shaft super heated and only weld in short bursts.

This would also apply to shortening companion flanges which is do-able (and has been done).

The summary is you dont need to spend $1k plus as ling as you take your time, talk to the right people and arrange the work yourself. My CV shafts to suit my r200 in my 510 cost $110 delivered

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