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Ludachris

Dat16 - Sr20de 1971 Datsun 1600 - Now Running! Page 21 For Video!

543 posts in this topic

Hey, im Chris Taylor, 17, and i live out yonder in Wagga Wagga, NSW.

I started out as a noob kid addicted to 1600s. Not knowing anything, i jumped in and bought my very first 1600. What a mistake <!-- s:x --><!-- s:x --> . Not the 1600 part, but my selection of car. Boy have a copped some shite since. Coming all the way from sunny queensland, it looked great on the outside with only a few rust bubbles and dents here and there. But when i finally came to do some work on it, bodyfiller started cracking of everything imaginable!! Rusted metal literally fell off the car when being driven!! Oh the regrets.... <!-- s:roll: --><!-- s:roll: -->

ENTER CAR NUMBER 2

After a little local research, i came across a 1600 body shell that was in reasonable condition, a little rust here and there, but no where near as bad as the other one. So with the help of local datto owner Brendan, we took a trip to bumpkinville aka Uranquinty to pick it up.

Sitting at home in my garage, i had initially planned to do most of the work myself, but like many people will know, time is a key factor, and time i didnt really have. So after some simple garage remedies i gave it my final coat of primer before i sent it away.

I decided to send it to a local restoration shop, Mild To Wild Restorations to get all the rust cut out, and all the panels beaten, straightened, and painted. They have had this car since January of this year, and well, paint should only be another few more weeks.

My first thoughts were to keep all the gear standard (engine, suspension, brakes, etc etc). But OH HOW THAT CHANGED!! <!-- s:lol: --><!-- s:lol: -->

I knew i couldnt go turbo, because, well, 1. That would be very illegal for a red P plater, and 2. Expensive...

SO i settled on a nice little SR20DE from an S13 silvia. It came complete with; Tomei poncams, Jasma extractors, Ported and polished head, Extreme Button Clutch, and a stage 1 chipped ECU.

Then i thought; If im going to a bigger motor, ill need bigger brakes, and suspension, and diff, and fuel system, and blah blah blah....

I have been organising/fixing all this over the past few months settling on things like; LN106 Hilux 4spots, DBA 275mm crossdrilled/vented/slotted rotors, custom coilover kit, Datsport fitting/handling kit, etc. etc.

Well, that basically sums it up in one. Of course that is not everything that has happened.... but i think what i have written is long enough.

In summary: Im still a kid, but not so noob. I still have limited time, but whenever im not doin HSC stuff, its datto all the way. <!-- s:D --><!-- s:D -->

My summary:

Engine

S13 Silvia SR20DE

Tomei Poncams

Ported and polished head

10” Davies Craig thermo fan

PLMS Modified Engine Management - To come

Bosch 044 fuel pump

Aluminium surge tank

Lightweight pulley kit

Jasma Extractors

Brakes

Front:

LN106 AUS delivered Hilux 4spots (Disc gap in caliper halves had to be widened)

DBA425 275mm crossdrilled, slotted and vented rotors

Bosch replacement brake pads

7/8ths Master cylinder

6.5" Booster

Rear:

R31 Rear disc brake setup

Datsport caliper brackets

MCB brake pads

Driveline

Extreme button clutch

Datsport Clutch kit with stainless braided hose

Std. R160 diff for now. Trying to find a R180 to replace it.

Suspension

Front:

240K (large disc type) front struts

Custom coilover setup with weld on perch.

(**Considering sectioning strut tube to take R31 shorter shocks**)

KYB strut inserts

Rear:

Unknown rear springs, but they are stiff and low

KYB mono gas shocks on rear

Interior

Speco 2 5/8" tacho mounted in factory position

DRiFT grey/black steering wheel with 60mm boss extension (so i can reach the steering wheel. I have long legs <!-- s:P --><!-- s:P -->)

NoName black chrome gear knob

VDO water temp and oil pressure 2" gauges with warning light centre mounted

SAAS GT reclinable sports seats grey/black

Retrimmed rear seat to match front seats

Doors trims to be remade to match everything else

Remade black vynil hoodlining

Retrimmed B pillar covers

Retrimmed parcel shelf ends

Wheels and Tyres

16x7" front, and 16x8" rear Watanabe RS-Eight's (I had them before Jeff i swear!!)

215/40/16 all round, not sure what tyre brand i will go

Body

1971 4 door sedan

All body work performed by the team at Mild To Wild Restorations

Rust removed and fixed

Straightened panels

Respray to come in Kia Turquoise Blue

All stainless trim and chrome pieces are being straightened/fixed by M2W and rechromed where necessary

DAT16 plates are coming!!

P.s I stole the template/ideas from Gun 16 <!-- s:P --><!-- s:P --> .

By now your probably sick of me and my ranting/writing, but if you have read to here, congratulations, and thankyou.

Pics i will upload tomorrow. I have recent pictures, plus ones that are dated a while ago.

Thanks

Chris

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Pictures of my beasts: (Sorry for the amount of pictures...)

Most are self explanitory...

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Kia Turquoise Blue - Body Colour

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Body shell number 2

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1/24th scale model painted in Kia Turquoise Blue

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The one problem with the LN106 hilux calipers is that the disc gap is too narrow. Easy fix: Machine it out to 26, 27 or 28 mm to suit the 24mm thick disc.

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Prototyping coilovers. Springs too short. New springs on their way.

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What a mess...

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Out with the old.... now parting out

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Yep. Watanabes. Before Jeff

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...In with the new

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Main problem area... however still not tooo problematic. Better than the other car

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Ready to go..

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Engine bay bling... should help the N/A rev a little easier

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Widend disc gap to suit 24mm thick rotor

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Well..... that is where we are up to.

Most of the running gear has been sorted out, almost ready to bolt in.

Front right and left guards are almost done... just a bit more panel beating and a layer or two of bodyfiller.

Front fascia is nearly done. So straight, but so much body filler....

Bonnet has always been straight, but just a few touchups here and there to make it spot on.

Datsport stuff is on its way to make the whole process move alot quicker and easier.

Yeah... well. Thanks again.

Chris

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Not many replies.....hmm.....

O well. For those that want to look, just a few more things to the SR.

Lightweight pulley on the water pump. I will be putting one on the alternator, and i have ordered a GFB crank pulley, and that will be going on once i have machined the front two levels.

I am sorting out my breather setup and going to order a oil filter relocation kit.

So far:

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damn

Looks good and coming along nicley

loving the Watanabes

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chris im also loving the watanabes. Looks like you are doing a very thorough job, which is good to see. Keep up the good work, and the SR Na is a good engine. When your off your Ps just get a manifold and a T28 and your set.

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When your off your Ps just get a manifold and a T28 and your set.

hahaha you read my mind... im constantly keeping an eye out for a standart manifold someone wants to get rid of...

once shes up and running, ill be buying all the turbo gear, so when im off my P's, ill just bolt it all on and shes set.

Thats the reasoning behind the overkill for the N/A in the likes of the brakes, and fuel pump and lines etc. So all i have to do is the turbo setup... it will be that simple

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Great work on all the pictures, and keep them coming

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Thanks gun. You really have been my inspiration latley... If i ever need convincing to spend more money, i just read your thread Seriously.... things you have convinced me to buy: lightweight pulley set (incl GFB crank pulley), larger Greddy style oil sump, oil filter relocation kit etc etc. (And thats just for the engine!!) They were things i was considering.... but then once i looked through your thread... it all looked so well done, i decided HEY! what the heck.... and went ahead with it...

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Looking great Chris - wish I had the chance to build a car as good as yours when I did my HSC

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Nice work to date Chris.

You'll just need to get that body shop to get a move on so you can start piecing the puzzle

Good to see nothing's half-assed too..

Keep it up.

Daniel.

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NIce work mate you have done really well, good luck with the rest of the build!! hopefully u will have it back from the beaters soon!

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Thanks guys. It shouldnt be too long until its back!!! Im gettin so anxious!! I go the the shop about 2 or 3 times a week to check progress, and give them things to do....

Not long to go... i swear.

Then the fun begins Reassembly

Although, the first step is getting all the wiring fixed up and sorted out.... which i have no idea on

A few more things arrived in the last couple of days:

-Apexi pod

-CUSCO catch can

-Wilwood bias valve

-And my brakes and hubs are finally back in my hot little hands ready to be test fitted to the 240K struts before i send the struts to the sandblasters/powdercoaters.

No pics... people know that those things look like

Thanks again.

Chris

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Good News!!!

Tuesday of next week the car will have its final coat of primer!!

Then it will be given a final rub down, and then a coat of basecoat, and a few layers of clear!!

So... im looking at having it in my garage within a maximum of the end of 2 weeks.

In the mean time... im getting all the engine bay bits and pieces sorted out, and finished where i can.

I have painted the rocker cover. I was originally going to go silver.... but i thought i would try something a little different, and go black. But not just any old black, a black with a brilliant turquoise blue/green pearl. The pearl was sprayed from about a 1m distance, so it has given it a flake/fleck effect. About 6 layers of clear later, it came up something like this:

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Really making the pearl obvious...

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Polished tops of writing...

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Fleck/flake type effect on pearl...

Plus ive been doing only minimal work on the other bits and pieces...

Installed the larger sump and oil filter relocation kit, cleaned up a few more things.... and started getting it ready for a good pressure wash.

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Oil filter relocation...

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Big greddy style sump

Thats all for now.... expect lots in the next few weeks.

The fun is almost about to begin...

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Chris

Did you strip the floor pan, boot area back to bare metal before priming/treatment? I am guessing yes...

Did it have any sound deadener crap that you had to remove aswell?

How did you go under the car? IE did you bother stripping the sound deadener crap off there aswell?

cheers

James

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looks like it will be comin together very quickly when you get the shell back. quick question for ya when you painted the rocker cover did you mask the writing off or paint the silver again on the writing?

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Chris

Did you strip the floor pan, boot area back to bare metal before priming/treatment? I am guessing yes...

Did it have any sound deadener crap that you had to remove aswell?

How did you go under the car? IE did you bother stripping the sound deadener crap off there aswell?

cheers

James

The whole interior has been stripped pretty much back to bare metal. This was done with either paint stripper or a strip disc or a wire brush. Whatever was deemed necessary at the time for the desired area.

Anywhere there was bare metal, or anything close to bare, was given a coat of etch/wash primer to seal the metal.

My theory is that; if the sound deadener doesnt come off easy with the wire brush on the grinder/drill, then is will stay on the panel with no worries.

Under the car hasnt been touched yet... it will most probably just get the wire brush treatment.

The underbody and wheelarches are going to be covered in stoneguard/deadener, and the interior and the boot are just going to get a coat of 2pac satin black, without the clear.

looks like it will be comin together very quickly when you get the shell back. quick question for ya when you painted the rocker cover did you mask the writing off or paint the silver again on the writing?

Well the rocker cover was completely painted in the black mix, and got its layers of clear also. Once it was baked, and everything was nice and hard, i just started at P800 grit sand paper, and worked thru to P1200, and P1500 and basically just polished the tops of the lettering. Im considering coating the whole lot (including the lettering) with clear again... Purely to seal the bare metal...

If you were to mask off the lettering, i would personally consider you insane The time it would take you to mask them off correctly, would be about the same amount of time that it takes to actually spray it...

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looking good mate should be a nice bit of gear when its done...

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looking good mate should be a nice bit of gear when its done...

Thanks dude. You prolly hear this heaps, but your poster on my wall gives me inspiration every time i look at it....

Update time:

Everything is now totally in primer ready to be rubbed back.

First thing next week the door jams, the underside of the bonnet (gettin the flats all sprayed with sound deadener first), the inner of all the doors and the engine bay will all be rubbed back and painted!

Then hopefully the end of next week the whole outside will be rubbed back and painted also!

THEN all that is left to do is; paint the interior and the boot with a 2pak satin black; strip/clean the whole underside and respray in 2pak satin black in some areas, and sound deadener in others.

Then after all that, it will be sittin in my garage, ready for a new heart.

AND christmas has come early with the arrival of my goodies from Datsport. Thank you Baz and Tracy, everything is perfect! lol.. get ready for order #2

Order #1 consisted of:

-Enhanced Handling Kit

-Transmission cover kit

-Throttle pedal/cable kit

-Steering box support

-Clutch kit (master, braided hose, slave)

-KYB rear mono gas shocks

-Rear caliper brackets

order1il7.jpg

Eeeeexcellent.....

Thankyou again Baz and Tracy. Perfect.

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Update:

Everything is in primer! woo!

By the end of the week the door jams, insides of doors, underside of bonnet and boot, and the engine bay will be all rubbed back. THEN, first thing next week, they will be given a nice coat of paint. Fiiiiiinally...

After that is done, it should be about another week, or 2 max before its done. Painted. In my garage.

Pics will come when the car isnt looking so naked... no panels doesnt create much excitment. SO, next week i will get some pics of the car with all its panels all bolted up and aligned as they will remain.

Thats about it to date...

Chris

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Looking awesome chris.. love the rocker cover.. it rocks!!

BTW, what diff are you intending to run?

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Looking awesome chris.. love the rocker cover.. it rocks!!

BTW, what diff are you intending to run?

Cheers man.. its just something a little different that i havent seen before...

Diff will remain the R160 until i can find an R160 LSD/R180 with about a 4.11 ratio..

What would be ideal is an R180 LSD with a 4.11 ratio... but we dont all get what we want

Actually... just an R180 will suffice... whatever ratio i dont mind... aslong as its not below 3.7 (Anyone got a diff for sale??)

In the long run... im going to make a setup similar to Jeffs, only i want to use the S15's shortnose R200 with the Helical centre...Of course it will run some custom CV's to be able to handle the extra power.

BUUT... that is once i have got a painted car, and an engine in a car, and a running motor, and registration, and a reliable running car

Has to be finished by the 20th of November. My ultimate deadline. Can i make it?

Chris

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R180 would be my choice for a DE, hmmm... Subaru STi 4.44 ratio R180.. I would definitely not go below 4.1..

If you can find a subbie diff, it will be ATB LSD, and the Datsport CM is R180 ready, as far as I know..

R200 weighs significantly more than an R180..

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S12 gazelle (the IRS equipped ones anyway) are 4.11 R180. You can buy LSD centres for these.

http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm

180B SSS R160's are 4.11 - the crownwheel and pinion are supposedly swap-able into the Subaru RX Turbo R160 clutch type LSD. This is what I'm putting in my 1600 soon.

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i would love an LSD right now... but funds are being re-directed into getting the car on the road...

so the R160 will stay until its running.... but then i will need an R180 for when i put it down the strip or round the track...

I reckon the subie diffs are the way to go. WRX STi diff with CV's sounds perfect! if only i had more coin....

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coming along nicely

one thing i'm not sure if you've considered or not is actually tapping the thread for the oil feed in the block now while the engine is out, seeing as it's an N/A block and doesn't have one, not too much hassle and will save you having to do it when the times comes around, plus if you do it now, it willmotivate you quicker down the line when you WONT have to remove the engine again, just a matter of getting the right thread tap and then plugging it for the mean time

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